Adjust the lift rod on the clevis strap so that when you push the rod down, the sink stopper pops up. Once it becomes soft, roll it into a rope shape that will extend around the underside of the drain flange 3 Press the putty beneath the drain flange, keeping the integrity of the rope shape.
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After finishing this adjustment, fully tighten both the retaining nut and the clevis-lift rod attachment nut with your fingers. The job is easier than doing the rough-in plumbing that produced the stub-out, but it still calls for care. Slide the nut up along the tailpiece and fit the washer around the end of the tailpiece. If it is, you'll see a 2-inch plastic pipe stubbing out of the wall under the sink. The crosspiece that comes in the kit may or may not be long enough to make the connection between the disposer and other sink bowl drain pieces. You have it connected properly when you move the clevis rod up and down and the stopper moves correspondingly in the sink. They have standardized threads for ease of labor, which makes this an easy do-it-yourself project.
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Next, slide the clevis strap onto the end of the pivot rod. You should see a threaded strainer with a gasket and nut, and a tailpiece -- a short length of pipe that extends down from the drain under the sink.